The Art Of Cloisonne Antiques and Jewelry

Although cloisonné comes from the French word cloison meaning cell, the art actually originated in the Byzantine Empire and Japan around the sixth century.

While Chinese cloisonné gets the most recognition for its work in this art, historians do not find cloisonné there until the thirteenth century.

In any case, the Oriental influence on the craft is profound, stretching even to today’s examples.The art is enjoyed by many and one can find many cloisonne antiques or new pieces on the market.

The enamels attributed to the Byzantines employed wire designs on gold. Usually designs were religious in nature as the Byzantine Empire was Christian. Christ, crosses and saints decorated early examples of cloisonné. Japanese cloisonné was more naturally oriented in birds, flowers and landscapes. In contrast, Chinese cloisonné tended toward patterns and ornamental decoration for the enamels.

Cloisonné artists make enamel as follows. First, they must create a design. Graph paper is commonly used to map out this stage. Secondly, crafters must solder a wring of wire, known as the bezel, to a piece of sheet metal; this forms the base or enamel cup.

The crafter continues to work with the wire forming the cells or cloisons. Once the pattern or design is installed with the wires, they can be filled with the prepared enamels in layers. Each subsequent enamel layer must be fired in a kiln so that it melts. Finally, the artisan obtains a finish by grinding and polishing the jewel.

Cloisonné enamels are transparent, opaque or opalescent. Each type offers a rainbow of color choices. A single piece might use different types of enamel and different cells might be comprised of various colors. In some ways the art is very similar to painting and, of course, the finished product does actually resemble a painted scene. Enamel is available in chunks or powdered form. Chunks tend to be less expensive but the artisan must then grind this down to powder.

Since there are only a couple metals that may be used with the enamels, choices are typically gold, silver, bronze, zinc-free brass, copper and specially treated aluminum. As cloisonné materials will not be available at the craft store they must be purchased online or through a supply catalogue.

Once the jewel is complete it may be fashioned into earrings, rings, pendants, charms, etc…Enameling does require some knowledge of metal working so it is not necessarily an ideal craft for beginners. Some earlier preparation is needed to form a solid knowledge base. Today’s best pieces of cloisonné can often be found in galleries and shops.